More walks along the Amalfi coastline
1) From Bomerano via San Domenico and Praiano to Marina di Furore
This was my second visit to this area and I took along my precious copy of the Sunflower book by Julian Tippett : Sorrento, Amalfi Coast and Capri: Car Tours and Walks (Landscapes) . If you are staying on the coast, take the Sita bus (Campania-Salerno from Amalfi up to Agerola (Bomerano) asking to be dropped off for the "Sentiero degli Dei" or Footpath of the gods. Due to the one-way system, you will have to go up a side street to the main square of Bomerano where there are large notice boards giving details of the walks.
Below are some of the hairpin bends your bus-driver will have to negotiate coming through Furore
For the first part of this walk (segment 28), you follow the Footpath of the gods.
At the Colle la Serra take the lower path towards Positano. A short distance further on, after having skirted below a house, there is a clearly-signed T-junction : straight on is for Positano but here I turned left for the monastery of San Domenico. This section is fairly steep and rocky, partly with steps. If it's not too early, the terrace of the monastery makes a superb picnic spot. In spite of information to the contrary, it didn't look as if you could visit the inside of the monastery.
I walked down to Praiano, had a look around and noticed this sign for the attention of dog-owners, painted on ceramics just like the house numbering, saying : I can't pick it up. YOU DO IT..
After climbing back up to rejoin the path I turned in the direction of Marina di Furore (segment 33). Below Sant'Elia there had been a recent wildfire (Oct. 2011). The soil was completely blackened and very crumbly, so I was seriously worried that the path might have collapsed at some point. Fortunately, I reached my destination without mishap but, as always happens when I don't feel at ease, I took no photos until I reached a safer part. Marina di Furore (below) is a minuscule fjord of which you get just a fleeting glimpse from the bus as you cross the bridge before the road plunges into a tunnel.
Here in halting Italian I asked a young couple if they knew where the bus stop was and the young girl happily flagged down a bus going in the opposite direction to ask for me! The answer? Wait on the doorstep of the abandoned house just beside the bridge and wave at the bus-driver as he comes round the corner.
2) From Amalfi via Atrani and Torcello to Minori
From Amalfi (segment 2 in the Sunflower book) you start by taking the smaller set of steps in front of the cathedral and then following the path which burrows beneath the cathedral. In about 20 minutes you reach the fascinating Atrani.
Architectural details on the path between Atrani and Torcello (segment 15). The path rises gradually and after about 1h40 you reach Torcello at an altitude of 230 metres. Take a breather here on the terrace of Torcello chapel.
It is an easy walk down from Torcello to Minori. This whole walk is on good, even paths, mostly tarmacked.
In Minori, I visited the small archeological site of Roman ruins and then jumped on a bus back to Amalfi.
3) Amalfi through Pogerola to Pastena and Lone and back to Amalfi.
On the following day my walk took me from Amalfi up to Pogerola, a climb with a height gain of 300 metres on a good path.
Climbing this more or less deserted path, there were some quite good views of Amalfi and the Torre dello Ziro but Pogerola itself did not seem to offer much so I set off down towards Pastena. My plan had been to walk a circular path from Pastena to Lone and back and then continue on to Amalfi. However dark clouds were coming in fast from the sea and just as I reached the wide open, and welcoming, porch of a small church in Pastena the downpour began. After waiting one hour in vain for the rain to clear I set off in the direction of Amalfi getting completely drenched in the process.
4) Footpath of the gods - Sentiero degli dei
This time I saved for my last day the magnificent walk from Bomerano along the contour high above the Amalfi coast as far as Positano. This well-known path starts in the main square of Bomerano (Sita bus 5080 (Campania-Salerno), from Amalfi). It was a very windy day and, in similar circumstances, care should be taken as you are sometimes walking on little more than a ledge above high cliffs.
Close-up and distant views from the Footpath of the gods. The right-hand picture extends as far as the Sorrento peninsula; Colli San Pietro as well as the Malacoccola cliffs are just visible in the distance.
The photographs below give an idea of the verticality of the landscape.
This photograph below shows the hole in the cliffs above Monte Pertuso which gives the little town its name.
The photograph below, looking south from Positano, shows part of the Footpath of the gods high up in the hills.
From Nocelle and also from Monte Pertuso it is possible to catch the internal bus service down to Positano. The walk down to Positano includes numerous steps but it is well worth it just for the exceptional views including the one at the head of this page showing the cemetery of Positano.
This time, I managed the whole walk from Bomerano to Positano in 3h30, including a 25-minute picnic stop.
Fairly useful, if not ideal, maps are available covering the Amalfi coast divided into 3 portions. See below. These maps can be bought at newstands, or online at www.carteguide.com or, if you are lucky, might be available for free from the tourist offices.
I stayed in fact in Bomerano, Agerola, at the family-run Hotel Due Torri in October 2011. There is an extremely friendly family welcome at this hotel and the half-board option is an excellent choice. It does mean you often have to catch a bus to the start of a walk but the 40-minute drive down through Furore to Amalfi (and the noteworthy skill of the bus-drivers) make this quite a highlight.
You should always buy your bus tickets in advance, from tobacconists or from the travel agent near the Amalfi bus station.
Link to the previous Amalfi visit.